Australia’s Top End: Aboriginal rock art in Kakadu National Park

Aboriginal rock art, Kakadu National Park, NT, Australia

History books on stone: rock art in Kakadu National Park

One way of thinking about the rock art of Australia’s indigenous people is like an unwritten library – of knowledge and belief. The stories, songs, dances and ceremonies that go along with the rock art have been handed down for thousands of generations. Some paintings are even believed to be from the time of the creation or Dreamtime.

At Ubirr, as you walk up towards the Nadab lookout where everyone goes to watch the stunning sunset over Arnhem Land, there are a number of rock art galleries. The roof of one gallery is covered with spindly figures and people believe these were painted by powerful (and very tall) Mimi spirits. They are also believed to have taught Aboriginal people how to paint. After the sun goes down the parks people hurry you off the lookout because the local people believe the Mimi will get you.

There is also a sort of illustrated menu with specific types of fish, turtles, mussels and other locally found foods. This Kakadu rock art may be drawings by a particularly successful and proud hunter but the pictures also represent the spirit of the animal, like this Almangiyi or long-neck turtle:

Aboriginal rock art, Kakadu National Park, NT, Australia

These rock shelters provided good campgrounds from which to exploit the rich resources of the East Alligator River and the Nadab floodplain. Also found in the Ubirr rock art galleries is the powerful creation ancestor – the Rainbow Serpent or Garranga’rreli. Many are a bit like x-ray paintings and are an estimated 1,500 years old. Here is a Mabuyu hunting figure.

Aboriginal rock art, Kakadu National Park, NT, Australia

This is a picture of a person sick with Miyamiya – see the swollen joints – said to be contracted if you disturb the stones of a sacred site downstream from Ubirr near the East Alligator River.

Aboriginal rock art, Kakadu National Park, NT, Australia

Aboriginal people are very concerned about people disturbing certain sites, and often with good reason. There have been a number of connections drawn between such sites and the subsequent discovery of substances dangerous to people like uranium.

Aboriginal artists have pictorially represented different aspects of their lives on the sandstone rock of Kakadu. Another important site is at Nourlangie, where the top layer of painting we can see is often a recent (by which I mean in the last century) re-painting – a traditional practice. Underneath will be layer upon layer, sometimes going back over 20,000 years of Aboriginal habitation of this area.

Aboriginal rock art, Kakadu National Park, NT, Australia

The famous image of the Lightning Man – Namarrgon – is again about spiritual ancestors creating the landscape of Kakadu. During the ‘build up’ in October/November, Kakadu sees spectacular electrical storms, signalling the beginning of the Wet Season.

Living in Melbourne for the past year I’ve never seen an Aboriginal person, an indigenous Australian. Not one. So travelling in Australia’s Top End it was a relief to find Aboriginal people shopping next to me in the Darwin Woolworths supermarket. Yes there are also many destitute Aboriginal people in Darwin – camping out on public or communally owned land – but at least they’re not invisible.

There are over 600 indigenous communities in the Northern Territory, although most of those have a population of less than 50. Many are beset by serious social problems including alcoholism and violence and the efficacy and ethics of government intervention are nothing if not controversial after centuries of abuse and neglect.

Clearly, they should have the same chances and options as other Australians. I’m grateful they can share their magnificent country with us, and their magnificent rock art history.

By Natasha von Geldern

Have you seen Aboriginal rock art in Australia?

 

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About Natasha von Geldern

Natasha von Geldern is the World Wandering Kiwi, a freelance travel writer, editor and inveterate traveller who is passionate about making the pages of the atlas real one trip at a time.

Comments

  1. These examples of aboriginal rock art are really outstanding. They make me want to visit Australia.
    Italian Notes recently posted..The origin of urban planningMy Profile

  2. The rock art at Ubirr was some of the best I saw in Australia. And the view from the top of Ubirr was pretty stunning too – straight out of Crocodile Dundee (literally)!
    Laurence recently posted..In photos: Barcelona’s Gothic QuarterMy Profile

  3. Wow. I love seeing art like this and thinking about how incredibly old it is. Such history!
    Christy @ Technosyncratic recently posted..Vietnam’s Best-Kept SecretMy Profile

  4. As it happens, I took some images when I was at Uluru with Mrs Nam. I’ve fished them out for you to see; unfortunately lost notepads mean I can’t enlighten you further (to my shame). Perhaps a fellow contributor has seen these well-known examples too and can explain them for us? Anyway, see here…

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/siddienam/7363457954/

    Yours are great. Can’t wait to visit again and go north. One day, one day…
    Siddie Nam recently posted..Adrian Chiles and the shin padMy Profile

    • Natasha von Geldern says:

      Very nice @Siddie_Nam. I somehow didn’t take any photos of the rock art at Uluru (to my shame). Plenty more to see in Australia I’m sure.

  5. Wow! The history here is amazing!
    Brock – Backpack With Brock recently posted..Exploring Franconia Notch State Park – New Hampshire, USAMy Profile

  6. Great photos and I’ll be there in a couple of weeks, so this post is getting me even more excited!
    Laurel recently posted..Conversations with a Benedict Monk in Norcia, UmbriaMy Profile

  7. Beautiful pictures. I loved how you explained the myths associated with each Aboriginal drawing.
    Mary @ Green Global Travel recently posted..How To Be Happier: 5 Secrets To Improvising Your LifeMy Profile

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  1. [...] Twylfelfontein the rock art engravings in sandstone include a map showing the waterholes of the area, human footprints and [...]

  2. [...] Kakadu National Park in Australia’s wild ‘Top End’ teems with life in both the wet and dry seasons. From the wildlife to the Aboriginal rock art to [...]

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