Cambodia’s capital, Phnom Penh, is set on the confluence of the Mekong and Tonle Saprivers. It has wide tree-lined boulevards, faded colonial architecture, good restaurants and a lively riverfront esplanade scene.
Stroll the promenade, enjoying the pastel shades of faded colonial buildings and the colourful sights and sounds of this fast developing city. It’s also an important place to turn your mind to Cambodia’s tragic past with a visit to the Killing Fields or Tuol Sleng Prison.
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Wandering in Phnom Penh
I wandered through the peaceful grounds of the elegant palace and pagoda and visited the Cambodia National Museum to see the collection of artefacts removed from the temple complex at Angkor Wat.
In the evening having drinks at the Foreign Correspondent’s Club bar on the waterfront is the thing to do, taking in the sights and sounds of the busy thoroughfare.
The locals enjoying the evening stroll, tiny food stalls spring up, a girl walks gracefully along effortlessly balancing a flat basket of drinks and snacks on her head. You could sit watching the faces and vehicles in the passing traffic for hours.
Suddenly, there’s an elephant walking along the street, he seems to be putting his head into a bar, he’s snaffled a few baguettes and a pat from the girls at the street stall outside, and his keeper guides him slowly back out into the traffic.
Visiting the Killing Fields
A visit to the “killing fields” will be a sobering part of any holiday. This is the execution and mass burial site which was used by the prison in town under Pol Pot’s regime. The prison (security office number 21) is now a Cambodia genocide museum.
It was once a school and at first looks innocuous, until you see the barbed wire (to stop prisoners from committing suicide by leaping from the balconies) and walk into the first classroom/interrogation room. An iron bedstead, manacles and a thankfully indistinct photograph of the tortured victim who was found there when the Khmer Rouge were ousted.
Somehow you expect the stench of death to assault your nostrils but all I could smell was the warm frangipani scented air from the trees in the courtyard, dropping their creamy blossoms onto the grass. The next building is the cellblock and contains room after room of mug shots.
Small black and white photographs of internees, many young girls and boys, some unbearably young as whole families were imprisoned. Every face is an enigma. Some bewildered, some still defiant, some blank and numb, some still innocent and unknowing. There were to be seven survivors at liberation. A few of the children’s faces almost look like they could be school photographs but the number pinned to the chest gives it away.
Getting around in Phnom Penh
As elsewhere in Cambodia, the transportation of choice is by motorbike (moto). Although they are good drivers, with two people pillion weaving in and amongst the crazy traffic it is hair raising. The preferred technique for making a left turn is to head into the oncoming traffic for awhile until an imaginary gap opens up so that you can zip across three lanes to the other side of the road. Then you open your eyes and your heart starts beating again.
Delicious Cambodia food to look out for
Cambodia’s signature dish is the Fish Amok, a delicious creamy curry that can be found in just about every restaurant.
The classic pork and rice combo of Bai Sach Chrouk is the ubiquitous breakfast dish of Cambodia. Pork is marinated and grilled in a caramelised mix of coconut milk, palm sugar, fish sauce and soy before being finely sliced and served with rice and pickled vegetables.
Kuy Teav is a rice noodle soup in a pork-based broth topped with fresh herbs and aromatic spices. This is the perfect quick and delicious meal from roadside vendors across the country.
Spicy Asian salads are a highlight of travel in Indochina and the Khmer versions are delicious. Fresh Nhoim Troyong Chiek, or banana flower salad is a heady combination of sweet, sour and salty with shredded carrots, lemon, fresh herbs and a sprinkling of chopped nuts. Hot and spicy beef salad features lots of chilli and coriander with fish sauce and lime juice.
Why I love Cambodia travel
Having grown up hearing news reports about the troubles of Cambodia it is difficult not to look into the faces of the people trying to identify signs of what they have suffered.
Cambodia is still recovering from this relatively recent tragic history but the wonderful spirit of Cambodians never fails to touch visitors. You’ll go there for the spectacular temples but the people and the landscape are sure to leave a trace in your heart.
By Natasha von Geldern
