A stony mountain path blotched with bright yellow lichen leads the way into the landscapes of the Troodos Mountains. From arid hills to forested valleys sheltering dark black pines and tiny orchids, the Troodos national park covers 860 square kilometres and has nearly 100 marked walking trails.
It is difficult to believe all this wild beauty is only a short drive away from the sun, sand and sea worshippers thronging the highly developed beaches of Cyprus.
Mt Olympus is the highest summit at just under 2,000m and it often sees skiers making turns in winter. Many of these trails are the original paths – among ancient olive terraces – that would have once been trod by burro trains as the only transport through these hills.
The peaks of the Troodos turn rose-gold in the late afternoon sun and there is the distant music of animal bells. Carob seed pods crunch underfoot and the air is scented with wild rosemary.
Pic: Cyprus Tourism Organisation
In the traditional village of Skarinou Bougainvillea pours down white-washed walls and there is a rustic olive mill and a tiny, exquisite church of Panayia Odhigitria. In Greek Odhigitria means “the one that shows the way”.
The island state of Cyprus has rubbed shoulders with three continents over ten millennia, and its history reflects this with a good selection of monasteries and archaeological sites.
There are the nine famous ‘Painted Churches’ – awarded world heritage status by UNESCO – that date from the Byzantine era. Profitable mining at that time led to a flowering of art and culture away from the more vulnerable coastline of Cyprus.
These monasteries and churches with their rich icons and frescoes cling to the mountainsides like the wild moufflon sheep.
Near Pafos the Tombs of the Kings is probably the finest archaeological site in Cyprus and the ruins include homes, burial chambers and a peristyle atrium from the Hellenistic and early Roman periods.
On the west coast Maa-Palaeokastro was originally settled by the Mycenaean Greeks around 12,000 BC. The tall fortification walls enjoy commanding views over the Mediterranean Sea.
Pic: Cyprus Tourism Organisation
It is true that down on the coast you will find perfect Cyprus holiday destinations with palm tree fringed promenades and marinas full of gleaming yachts. I’m not saying you shouldn’t enjoy these.
But you would be missing out if you visit Cyprus without experiencing the green heart of the island, as it quietly maintains a peaceful way of life with timeless traditions.
Natasha von Geldern
