This is a post I have been thinking about writing for a long time. Since 2003. Since before I even had a blog to write on! In 2003 I was travelling in South Africa when I was held up by a man with a gun and robbed of my camera.
The location for the robbery was the vast Cape Flats Township that spreads out to the south-east of Cape Town. The reason I became a robbery target on that day in 2003 is because I was on a Cape Flats Township Tour.
Ever since this incident, from the moment I got up from my knees clutching the red graze on my neck where the camera strap had been dragged from me, I have been thinking about whether I should have gone on that tour. Whether anyone should go such a tour or participate in what some dub “poverty tourism”.
My understanding of ethical travel has evolved since those naïve, early backpacking days. Since then I have cringed with shame every time I read an article about patting (doped) tigers in Kanchanaburi or riding (abused) elephants in the north of Thailand because I unthinkingly took part in both those activities back in 2003.
There, I’ve admitted it. I even have photographic evidence. Needless to say I have no photos of that township tour, or many of Cape Town at all!
My reason for booking onto the township tour in South Africa was because, having spent over a month enjoying the spectacular wonders of the country I felt it necessary to see the other side of the coin, how the majority of the population live in that country. I thought that was ethical travel.
The township tour was very interesting up to the point when our group was waved down at gunpoint while stopping on an overbridge to take photos. The tiny houses (the dormitories of apartheid); the history of poverty and oppression; and most of all the people, none of which I would have seen or met without going on that tour.
I hate travelling in a destination just seeing the sights and never getting to interact with real people. That’s why I hired guides in Nepal – not to show me the way but to enjoy the cultural interaction with wonderful Nepali people.
I also visited the prison where Nelson Mandela was incarcerated on Robben Island in Cape Town, and have been to former torture prisons like S-21 in Cambodia and war sites like the Cu Chi tunnels in Vietnam. I even paid to shoot automatic weapons in Cambodia. It’s all coming out now! These places help me understand the history of a place but are they voyeuristic?
There’s no doubt the voyeuristic element of poverty tourism is nothing short of disturbing and there is often little or no benefit for the people who are the “attractions” of such tours.
In fact the most educational part of my township tour day was the three hours I spent in the waiting room of the Cape Flats police station watching the people and officers come and go in various states of distress. I have never felt so insignificant in the world or ashamed of taking up valuable police time.
Prior to my awful experience in the township I had travelled independently throughout South and southern Africa for three months. I would never let this incident, just days before my departure, colour my views of what is in fact a magnificent, if troubled, country.
For a long time I avoided tours altogether, not just because they make you a crime target but also because they just seemed like a supremely depressing if efficient way of seeing the world.
I now think there’s no point in doing any kind of travel unless it directly benefits the local people of a country and unless you make every effort to reduce your impact on the environment. How to travel as much as I do and uphold this ideal of ethical travel is an ongoing challenge.
I now look for small tours that support local employment and development, like the ones in which I recently participated in Myanmar with Grasshopper Adventures.
As with my Nepali experience, I will remember my time with my Myanmar guides for the rest of my life. They gave me insight into the beautiful landscape and rich culture of the country. I don’t remember my Cape Town guide at all.
By Natasha von Geldern
How do you define ethical travel? Have you ever been the target of crime while travelling?